Chef

Nick Badovinus

"The pork ‘cue at this third-generation family-owned establishment is the best in the city. Barbecue rib ends are considered a throwaway cut (and a pain in the neck to eat) so most places don’t mess with ‘em. These are loaded with fat and cartilage, and when they’re slow-smoked, they get so damn tender and juicy. This joint doesn’t smother the meat in sauce to hide its flavor, either. There’s hardly any seating, but who cares? Rip the bag open on the hood of your car and bring your own beer."

"Sure, the tacos are the real deal—I don’t buy tacos where people speak a lot of English. But it’s the elotes sold from the cart in the shadow of the awning that rules! He shucks the corn to order, hits the chile hard, and never stops smiling and making small talk. For his fifth birthday, my son wanted the 'corn man' (no chile on his, please). It’s only a few bucks, so give the guy a five and tell him to keep the change! He is a hard-working man!"

"This is how I know it’s Sunday afternoon. Morelia's shrimp cocktail is how a standard, Mexican-style shrimp cocktail should taste: sort of sweet, kind of spicy, ice-cold, and with fresh avocado slices."

"Samir Dhurandhar is the best steakhouse chef in the country—period. The Cowboy is a serious slab of beef in a serious beef town! It’s Prime Allen Brothers beef, wet-aged for 28 days (at least), and generously seasoned. It’s radiant broiled, as it should be, and comes out rich, salty, and earthy. The blistered, charred flesh throws a baseline of bitter. Washed down with melted butter, it weakens my knees! A great reminder that being at the top of the food chain is really the best place to be."

"This is the best 3 a.m. bowl of soul in town. It’s more than just a special dish—it’s a special place. Emotion trumps the poetry of the food here. The tortillas are like little warm blankets my mom would pull out of the dryer for me when I was five and had a cold. The pozole is hot, salty, spicy simmered pork in a dried chile broth. I always get a side of guac. Smear that on the tortilla, pull some pork shoulder from the bowl, add a little shaved cabbage. Roll, dunk, eat, sip Tecate. Repeat."

"Mango salsa and BBQ—that’s the combo of flavor that brought me to the Mansion 16 years ago to work for Dean Fearing. The lobster taco is the most important dish to ever come out of Dallas. This bite keeps the dream alive. Not to mention Dean is, without question, the best retail politician working the floor of any restaurant in Texas, if not the country! If you want to learn how to run a joint, head on in and watch the master!"