Chef

Ken Forkish

"I just tell master sushi chef Hiro Ikegaya how many pieces I want, his choice, and always get something fantastic that I wouldn’t have known to order. The assembly may have a little spice, a speck of something pickled, a petit julienne of something else or even a dab of sorbet, and it all just sings. No soy!"

"It sounds simple on the menu, but when it's done right, simple is the best in my book. On a very slightly sweet brioche bun from SOMEBODY'S bakery (Ken’s Artisan Bakery), the fried cod with celeriac salad hits my sweet spot with perfect balance. If potted duck liver is on the menu, have it for dessert with a glass of bubbles and hum along to Maurice Chevalier."

"Tommy Habetz’s meatball sandwich on a hoagie roll with tomato sauce, melted cheese, and pocked with brown takes me back to the East Coast meatball subs I loved growing up in Maryland—only these are better. If you like a little sour heat, ask for Mama Lill’s peppers on it."

"The chicken has a juicy crunch, and it has the ideal dry-outside crispness that happens with good fried food. With collard green, mashed potatoes, and gravy, it is like a warm hug from Grandma, who had a good day in the kitchen."

"There’s toast, and then there’s the real deal: a thick slice of country bread, toasted, generously slathered with good butter and jam, all served on a plate. Nobody bought it until Shawna put a piece of demo toast under a glass cloche by the cash register. Satisfies that mid-morning, didn’t-have-breakfast, need-something-good-with-coffee urge. Ouiiiiiiii!"

"Greg Higgins has been hanging hams and making dozens of kinds of salami and forcemeats since the 1990s, if not before. This plate—with Greg’s pickles, a little mustard, and some of my bread—goes great with any of the beers from Higgins' very extensive bottle list."