CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

Eat your way through every neighborhood of everyone's favorite food city.

December 19, 2018
CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

Eat your way through every neighborhood of everyone's favorite food city.

December 19, 2018
By Aralyn Beaumont | Art by Cassandra Landry

 

If you want to experience a city with your senses on full blast, ask a chef.

Since we know a few, our city guides are devoted to uncovering the best ways to wander a new place through the eyes of its most talented locals.

It's high hygge season over in Denmark, so we're kicking it off with an unbeatable food destination: Copenhagen. Land of cozy dens stocked with small-batch natural wine, sparkling canals, herds of wild bikes, and slices of rye bread piled high with raw venison, pastel shrimp, or pickled herring.

REFSHALEØEN

Basically as out of the way as you can get in this town, Refshaleøn is the old industrial shipyard that is home to a Michelin-starred restaurant called Amass and hosts the annual MAD symposium.

"There’s this bakery called Lille that’s relatively new," Accetolla tells us. "They make great, great bread. It’s all naturally leavened with such beautiful craftsmanship."

"I’m not a big bar person. Wine bars, though, I do have something to say about," she continues. "There’s one out by Amass called La Banchina. It’s like a shed with a little porch down by the water. It’s great, especially on a summer day. You can sit with a glass of wine and dip your toes in the water."

 

CHRISTIANIA/CHRISTIANSHAVN

Across the bridge from Nyhavn lies Christianshavn, the neighborhood most closely tied to the original Noma. Zilber biked there every day to work in his fermentation bunker, and still passes through on his way to the new Noma location in Refshaleøen. 

"Even though 108 is a one Michelin star restaurant, they have the Corner, which is a little section in their establishment that serves as a coffee shop all day and transforms into a wine bar at night, where you can eat off of the menu as well," he says. "I always stop for a coffee at Corner at 108. They're family, but it really is some of the best coffee in Copenhagen. I'll normally have a latte or cappuccino, and they have really fantastic pastries as well."


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There's a general aesthetic to Copenhagen—wide paved roads, immaculate row buildings—that is decidedly more rustic little neighborhood called Christiania, where the roads are cobbled with stone and lined with tangles of trees and wildflowers, graffiti adorns the shabby dissimilar buildings, and the smell of weed lingers in the air.  

"Christiania is like a free city—it's a cooperative feeling, so you feel like a hippie for a while," Accettola explains. "Walking through Christiania is a trip," Zilber agrees. "It's such a fun, crazy place that makes you wonder how it even exists.

When in Christiania, Accettola likes to eat at a cafeteria called Morgenstedet ("the morning place") that perfectly embodies the ethos of the neighborhood: a semi self-serve vegetarian place where you tell the cashier what you'd like. They'll ask you how much you want to pay, and that's that. "They're wonderful at blending spices and using unusual vegetables," she says. "I'm from Ohio, and my mom likes her meat and potatoes, but when she eats at Morgenstedet, she's completely blown away."

 

108
Hot Spot
$$, Outdoor Seating, Reservations, Full Bar, Scandinavian, Molecular Gastronomy, Christianshavn

VESTERBRO/ØSTERBRO

"When I'm not at the restaurant eating staff meal, I love getting tacos at Hija de Sanchez," Zilber says. The spot belongs to another Noma-alum, Rosio Sanchez. "I'll normally get the combo of the day, so that's three tacos that are always rotating based on whatever they're coming up with. They always have an al pastor, a vegetarian option, maybe some chicken, and you can get a michelada on the side as well."

Rosio's new restaurant, Sanchez, is also worth a trip, Zilber adds. "Should I give her two plugs? It really is good. Whenever someone's in town, I take them there. It's a surefire place that's always going to impress. It's always tasty, and not unapproachable by any means."

Out toward the northern end of the city lies Østerbro,  a residential neighborhood near the soccer stadium. A little bakery called Juno has been garnering more attention than the area's used to. "I had no problem finding it, because it was the one place in that part of town that had a line of like fifty people waiting at midday on a weekday," Accettola says. "Danes are not so keen on waiting in line. People in San Francisco are pretty good at waiting in line—they’ll stand in line for an ice cream cone for I don’t know how long, but that doesn’t happen all that often in Copenhagen.”

The menu is simple: cardamom buns, sourdough buns, little tartlets. "I got a sourdough bun, and oh my gosh, I know it sounds so basic, but with such great butter, such great cheese—I mean that’s what Danes are good at," Accettola says. "It was amazing. How could anybody ever give up bread when they taste bread like that? It was so, so good."

Juno grinds their own cardamom for the cardamom buns, making for little aromatic shards of the spice throughout. "When you eat them, you get pieces of cardamom in-between your teeth," she says. "That’s a true sign that you’ve been to Juno. But it's totally worth it."

 

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