CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

Eat your way through every neighborhood of everyone's favorite food city.

December 19, 2018
CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

CITY GUIDES | Copenhagen

Eat your way through every neighborhood of everyone's favorite food city.

December 19, 2018
By Aralyn Beaumont | Art by Cassandra Landry

 

If you want to experience a city with your senses on full blast, ask a chef.

Since we know a few, our city guides are devoted to uncovering the best ways to wander a new place through the eyes of its most talented locals.

It's high hygge season over in Denmark, so we're kicking it off with an unbeatable food destination: Copenhagen. Land of cozy dens stocked with small-batch natural wine, sparkling canals, herds of wild bikes, and slices of rye bread piled high with raw venison, pastel shrimp, or pickled herring.

FREDERIKSBERG

Frederiksberg is a place to get lost. If that sounds like the best possible itinerary, start your day at a Coffee Collective.

"They have different locations, but the one that I really like is in this part of town. It’s on a side street and it's just so nice and peaceful there, I can get a coffee on an AeroPress and just chill," Accettola says. "My first AeroPress was eye-opening. You know when you have an idea of what coffee tastes like and then you have a really well-brewed cup and think, Ah! Is that coffee? Just totally dumbfounded."

On an ideal day with nothing planned, after finishing her coffee, Accettola makes her way to a tiny street called Vaernedamsvej, where there are a lot of small shops and a cafe called Granola.

"Granola is aesthetically so cool," she says. "It has this retro feel to it and it’s run by this guy who does everything. He even looks like the café, he dresses retro. This was one of the first places I’d tasted a porridge where I thought, This is so good, why am I not eating this more? It was just a simple porridge with some fruit on top and cinnamon sugar—super simple stuff." 

Don't walk off Værnedamsvej without stopping in Summerbird, a chocolate shop that makes an amazing flødeboller, a classic Danish confection that looks like festive, chocolate-covered Christmas trees. A biscuit base topped with domes of marshmallow and coated in tempered chocolate, flødeboller are basically the refined, elegant cousin of moon pie.

"Every chocolatier has their own version of them, but Summerbird that does them really well," she says. "Those are some of my favorite things." 

After breakfast and chocolate, take yourself to another nearby street filled with shops and restaurants called Gammel kongevej. "It's in an older part of town, so the architecture’s beautiful and old roses are climbing everywhere. You can tuck into any small side street off Gammel Kongevej and you'll always find something. The old head baker at Tartine, Richard Hart, just opened his bakery Hart Bageri, too, so he's definitely adding something to the neighborhood."

If you keep walking, the city lakes are nearby, which make for a really nice stroll because there's a promenade that connects all five. "You could walk around one or all of them, depending on how much time you have. All the houses along the lakes are beautiful to look at from the other side, and it's a nice way to spend the day."

 

All The Good Stuff You Can't Eat

Being a pro tourist is basically being an expert in biding your time until your stomach empties enough so you can stuff your face again. May we suggest:

  • If you're up for leaving the city, you could find yourself in the middle of a deer forest (Dyrehaven) or ambling around The Louisiana, a modern art museum tucked into the woods on Copenhagen's northern seaside. Don't be afraid of spending all day there: the museum's restaurant is as good as the art on display. 
  • "For the size of the city, the amount of museums that exist here is a bit outrageous," ZIlber continues. "From the Danish Museum of Art & Design to the state museum to smaller galleries with just one or two exhibits at a time. It's a lot of fun to just pop in and out of them, because a lot are free, too. You can always weave through the city, have something excellent to eat, and pop into the next museum. They're littered all through town." Copenhagen Contemporary is a personal favorite of his, for its immersive, room-filling exhibits. 
  • Illum, the big department store, and Torvehallerne, the indoor-outdoor food hall, are both large, upscale shopping hubs where you can find all sorts of Scandinavian goods. "I always go to Illum if I want to get a mix of things that are Danish. There’s this store Illums Bolighus that’s for homewares. There's very little clothing, but you can always find pillows, glasses, or little knickknacks," Accettola says. "And right next door is Stilleben, which is even more Nordic. It’s a super quaint little shop and a lot of the products are made by [locals.]" 

 

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